A weekend in the Jura
We recently spent a long weekend in the Jura with a focus on exploring and understanding wine that is produced in this region. We'll do a deep dive into the styles of wines in a later blog, but for now, see our guide to a perfect weekend in Arbois, in the Jura. Unusually the wineries often own property right in the centre of town where they have small tasting venues and bottle shops, so you can pop in and taste, often without appointment.
Where to stay
We highly recommend using Closerie les Capucines as your base. It's right in the centre of town, and has recently been redecorated and quite frankly looks completely stunning, lots of Jura related books, and fun pieces of furniture. There's even a cave downstairs which will be used for winemakers tasting and events in the future. The hotel is set in a restored 17th century convent, and has a beautiful pool and outdoor space to relax. Usually I'd always recommend going to a boulangerie for breakfast, but the Closerie's breakfast is not one to be missed - eggs fresh fruit, jams and viennoiserie all outside on the terrace is a great way to start the day.
Things to do that aren't winetasting
If you google places to visit in Arbois, you'll see that the Cascade des Tufs is recommended. The waterwall is absolutely stunning, however it's worth noting that you can't actually dip your toes in. If you want a full dip, I recommend following these coordinates, which is where the locals park up and dive in to a similar waterfall, where it is permitted to bath. Perfect after a long day of wine tasting.
If you're a keen runner there's also trail called the Cirque du Fer a Cheval. Called this because of the horseshoe shaped plateau that you run along. The total distance from Arbois is about a half marathon.
You can also visit Louis Pasteur's house - we didn’t have time to visit, but he carried out his work on pasteurization through studying fermentation of grapes, and his presence is seen throughout the little town.
Where to eat
We ate a two amazing value and delicious restaurant and advise to book in advance for both. At the Bistronome, we had a delicious three course set menu for 36EUR, the dishes are creative and use local ingredients with modern twists, all with a scenic view of the stream. Circus is just across the road and again has a very reasonable 3 course set menu for 30EUR, an enticing wine list and cozy interior, again there is a lot of local produce used with some more unusual flavours.
Where to drink wine
Domaine de La Tournelle has a little bar that sits along the river. The wine served there is natural and they have a great range by the glass, plus some charcuterie and cheese dishes you can get to pair them with. The view is spectacular, and the knowledge of the team will help you chose a great glass to enjoy pre-dinner.
Le Bistrot des Claquets is open for lunch for food, but in the evening it's buzzing with people coming for a drink and huge chunks of cheese and charcuterie, with perhaps the friendliest owners in France. They had a lovely by the glass range, and the lady that poured our wine was so happy to recommend other options and different styles. Another great pre dinner spot.
Wineries to visit
A real perk of staying at the Closerie, was that Elise and Zelie knew so many winemakers in the region really well, they help you plan your day and call winemakers to arrange tastings on the day, too. You can book in advance, but it's not the same as when you're booking tastings in Barolo and Burgundy, which can sometimes require booking of months in advance.
Trying wines
You may or may not be familiar with the term Ouiller - I was very excited to try this style and eagerly asked a server what it meant. To which he said, it means topped up. I was a little confused, as I thought this was the normal practice for winemaking. We soon realised that this term is used to distinguish wine from the traditionally made oxidiative style wines that are very typical for the Jura region. If you're interested in a bit of etymology, the verb ouiller is connected to the french word œil the idea that the barrel should be filled up to the eye "remplir jusqu'a l'oeil" which could be the hole at the top of the barrel, or as one of the winemakers told me, up to your eye, when you're peering into the barrel hole.
In oxidative winemaking there is a yeast layer called "voile" which simply means veil in French, sort of similar to the 'flor' that you get in sherry, made in Jerez. The voile grows on top of the wine in the barrel, it's not only a protective barrier, but it allows a slow oxidisation process to occur. The voile also contributes to the nutty savoury notes that you get in oxidative wine. The voile forms in a cooler continental climate, from the natural yeast that it found in the winery. It's a very distinct smell, sometimes with notes of bruised or baked apples, briny or yeasty notes, even umami or walnut oil notes.
There's no real legislation on what the label should say to distinguish between these two styles, it's up to the winemaker what they put on their labels, so always worth asking how they distinguish between the two styles.
Aside from still dry wines, they make great value Crémant, often from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, a vin de Paille which is a sweet wine made from grapes that are left to dry on straw mats to increase concentration of sugar, and the famous Vin Jaune, which is aged for 6 years and 3 months under the voile, and made from 100% Savagnin.
Stephan Tissot - our tasting took place with Antoine and Pablo, they're knowledge of the Jura is so impressive. The tasting was really pleasant, and educational. Stephan is known for making single vineyard wines that reflect the character of each plot, this is includes his production of vin jaune, He was a very early adopter of biodynamic practices and focuses preserving the winemaking heritage of the region
Domaine Montbourgeau - in the nearby town of Etoile which is named as such thanks to the star shaped fossilised sea urchins in the areas limestone soils. The Domaine mostly makes Chardonnay and Savagnin across around 9 Hectares. It's currently ran by vigneronne Nicole Derieaux. The AOC of Domain l'Etoile doesn't permit any red wine to be grown here, unless used within the white styles.
Domaine Overnoy-Crinquand was a really special visit - the winemaker there doesn't speak loads of English but in French we were treated to an amazing tasting with so many facts about the region. They also keep cows by the vineyards whose milk is used to create Comte cheese. One of the most interesting facts to be revealed during the tasting was that the Poulsard grape - which is a typical red Jura grape. In the village of Pupillin where the winery is based, it's called Ploussard by all the locals, although it's the exact same varietal.